Dedicated to Binu.....
Life in Kano………………..
Life in Kano is endlessly fascinating. The city never seems to pause. People are always on the move, deeply engaged in their daily routines. Roads are alive with cars, massive trucks, and the ever-present achabas—our friendly motorcycles—darting up and down, ferrying passengers and goods, keeping the rhythm of the city alive.
The streets are equally animated. Children run around, roadside vendors spread their goods across pavements, and almost every few steps someone stops to chat, bargain, or rest. With a predominantly Muslim population, the five daily calls to prayer gently but firmly structure the day, adding a unique spiritual cadence to the city’s constant motion. Truly, it is a busy life in Kano.
Kano Feels Surprisingly Familiar
In many ways, Kano feels strikingly similar to an Indian township—minus Sharia law. The resemblance is uncanny: crowded roads, honking vehicles, smoke-filled air, unclean streets, garbage lining corners, and of course, friendly domestic animals casually occupying the middle of the road as if they own it.
Young boys often rush toward any vehicle that stops, asking for a few nairas. Add to that the occasional sight of Bajaj auto-rickshaws, and for a moment, you could almost forget you’re in West Africa. The twist? These auto-rickshaws are reserved only for women. Men simply don’t attempt to stop one—they know better!
For most people, the easiest, cheapest, and most adventurous way to move around is on an achaba. Helmets are officially recommended for safety, but wearing one may invite trouble—the common belief being that only the rich wear helmets. So you’re left with a dilemma: save yourself from a crash or save yourself from being robbed! Kano keeps you alert in every sense.
Food That Feels Like Home—Almost
Food in Kano, and Nigeria in general, surprisingly resembles Kerala cuisine from southern India. Rice dominates the plate—rice, rice, and more rice—accompanied by yam, cassava, and plantain (the large banana, ethakka). Markets overflow with huge onions, tiny tomatoes, Irish potatoes, occasional cabbage, and the rare brinjal.
To my pleasant surprise, many markets sell Indian spices—fennel seeds, cumin, cinnamon, cardamom, pepper, dry ginger, and several others whose names I’m still trying to learn.
Every restaurant serves rice under different names—jollof rice, Nigerian-style fried rice, and plain rice. Vegetarians, however, need courage. Even “vegetable soup” often contains dried fish or chunks of meat. For them, that still counts as vegetarian! Finding truly vegetarian food in Nigeria is, frankly, a real challenge.
The Infrastructure Paradox
Nigeria is one of the world’s largest oil-producing nations, yet it struggles with basic infrastructure. There is no proper public transport system—only bush taxis, expensive private taxis, and achabas.
Electricity comes from your most trusted Nigerian companion: the generator. Shops, homes, offices—generators are everywhere. Petrol generators are preferred since petrol is cheaper than diesel. There is an electricity board called NEPA, but its presence feels more symbolic than real.
Another scarce resource is potable water. Like many parts of India, taps often release more air than water.
Why You Still Fall in Love with Kano
And yet—despite everything—you slowly begin to admire Kano. The warmth, resilience, and hospitality of the people make daily hardships feel lighter. Nigerians are often described as the happiest people on earth, and after living among them, you start to understand why.
So you adapt. You smile more. You complain less. As the saying goes,
“When in Rome, be a Roman.”
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